Dreams of Kathmandu

IMGP1386
Originally uploaded by sfjelseth.

I made a rather last-minute trip to Nepal a couple weeks ago with my friends, Joel and Dana. Dana needed to renew her visa in Kathmandu and I jumped on the opportunity to go with them.

I didn't used to like Kathmandu. I've always preferred the areas of Nepal outside the Valley. This time was much different for me. I loved the City, and certainly Nepal as a whole, even more than ever. Each time I go there this feeling grows. The last 2 trips I made were very heart-breaking for me in a way... because I knew that I couldn't stay, but had to fly back to the other side of the world without knowing when I would return. This trip I could just enjoy and soak it in, rather than trying to distance my emotions to avoid heartbreak.

I was struck by the differences between Nepal and India. Admist all their similarities there are many distinctions, most too subtle to describe. Nepal, to me at least, seems cleaner. Life is much more simple and less chaotic (certainly less than Varanasi)and the food is usually milder. Although it's less "developed", it seems in many ways more Westernized.

I wish I could better describe the feeling that I have when I am in Nepal... perhaps "peace" would be an appropriate word. When I'm in Nepal, my soul feels more at peace... like I'm "home". Mixed with that feeling is a gushy excitement, like the smile you feel when you have a crush.

But... despite all this, I don't feel that now is the time. My love affair with Nepal won't begin just yet. For now, this is my place (Varanasi), and that's alright with me.

Misty Mussoorie path

Misty Mussoorie path
Originally uploaded by sfjelseth.

This is the path I take to class each night. It's not usually quite as surreal as it is in this photo... the fog that's descended on the mountain has left us in a cloud the last couple days.

Vivek: "This weather is weird"
Sarah: "It's perfect! I love it!!"
Lijo: "It looks like Heaven!"

More photos are at: http://flickr.com/photos/sfjelseth/

Greenland's Coastline

Greenland's coastline
Originally uploaded by sfjelseth.

About half way through my 14 hour flight I lifted the window shade to this amazing view. If you look closely you can see the iceburgs off the coast.

Married Frogs

Indian village marries off toads in bid for rains - Yahoo! News

Two giants toads were married in a traditional Hindu ceremony in eastern India at the weekend by villagers hoping to propitiate the rain gods and end a dry spell.

"Christianity started out in Palestine as a fellowship; then it moved to Greece and became a philosophy; from there it went to Rome and became an institution; after that it went to Europe and became a government. Finally it came to America where we made it an enterprise."

Richard Halverson, Chaplain, U.S. Senate

Varanasi

“[Varanasi] is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.“
Mark Twain

“Ancient” and “Intense” are the best words I have to describe Varanasi, but they come far short of capturing the feel of the place. It’s the most holy city for Hindus, their most important pilgrimage site, much like Mecca is to Muslims. Hindus often come to Varanasi to die and there are beliefs that those who die in Varanasi proceed straight to moksha (liberation from the cycle of reincarnation). Mark Twain’s quote describes one aspect of the city: the feel of antiquity. Much of India is removed from modernity, but Varanasi seems further removed. Walking along the Ganges you feel you’ve stepped back in time. I doubt the general appearance of the city, at least along the river, has changed in the last hundred years. There are now, of course, internet cafes and motorized vehicles, but cow-dung is still the fuel of choice and is formed into disks and left to dry on the side of buildings. Traffic consists of rickshaws, pedestrians, a few cars, a few cows, and more rickshaws. I’m not really sure why it feels so much older than other places in India and Nepal that I have been; perhaps it’s less touched by Western culture. Harder to explain is how I felt when I first arrived there. My travel companion said that my face lit up the moment our train pulled in. I was only there one week, half of it I spent whining because I had to leave. I know that when I return this feeling will fade. I will be bombarded by culture shock, frustrated that I can’t communicate effectively, and, worse, more keenly aware of the spiritual intensity and darkness that pervades the city. This is why I desperately need your thoughts and prayers. Some organizations require their workers to find 100 people to pray for them each day. I would love that kind of support and I know that I will need it. If you will, commit to pray daily or weekly… be as specific as you can… like, “I’ll pray every Tuesday at the prayer meeting” or “every day when I feed my gold fish”… whatever. I’ll be in touch through email and postings on this site.

For more about the city:
http://www.varanasionline.com/

Nepal Dreams

When I first heard of Varanasi I was searching of place for young people in Nepal to study. One of my ministry dreams for Nepal has been to see young people, particularly the kids from BCH, get equipped to lead impacting lives in Nepal. Varanasi was suggested to me as a place where I could study, and also hopefully bring young adults from Nepal. This was the dream that first sparked my interests, but soon, I was enthralled with the city itself and knew that God had something for me there. After the EquipNepal trip last year, I was able to visit Varanasi for the first time. I knew right away that I must come back. To my surprise, I returned just about 2 months later, for the Darshan trip. My interest in Varanasi was now more focused on learning about the Hindu culture and preparing myself for whatever God had for me in South Asia. In the mean time, EquipNepal began forming a scholarship program for young adults in Nepal. Just a couple months ago it hit me that my dreams (from about 3 years ago) were coming true through this program. Shortly thereafter EquipNepal named me a “field director”. One of my responsibilities will be to scope out education opportunities in Varanasi and elsewhere in N. India. So basically, the dream I prayed about years ago is happening through others and I’m invited to be a part of it. I can’t help but laugh at how God works his plans into existence. I still dream about Nepal. I hope to go there several times during the next couple years, at least on “visa runs” (when I have to leave India and re-enter every 6 months).